lincoln alternator

I put a high output lincoln on one and dug thru the parts bin to find a bracket that worked no idea what it came off... now I try to mark parts when we scrap something out. I had a friend that was a mechanic at a used car lot in town. He used to drag the junker trade ins out to my place and we would scrounge parts before the trip to the crusher

 

illustration here...from fordification.com

http://www.fordification.com/galleries/albums/userpics/10109/3Ginstall.jpg

 

KULTULZ, DOC, PONCHO, Anyone Else Smart;

KULTULZ ...smart?... ain:


You definitely want to go 3G. Does your 63 have an ALT now (OEM)? If so;

The proper 3G will go into the origional brackets.

Now with that being said, a wiring harness upgrade is mandatory as this ALT will burn the previous harness. Also, using the internal regulator will make your AMP lamp inoperative and will not charge properly. The harness has to be modified to draw from the fuse box instead of the IGN SW.

The below kit (shown in article) uses an external regulator and allows you to keep the origional lamp wiring and have the OEM appearance of the origional setup.

-3G ALT UPGRADE-

It will also need a dual drive belt drive as a single belt will slip at high charge.

Am I taking you in the right direction so far?

 

KULTULZ,

You right man! You ain't smart - you BRILLIANT :thumbup: :thumbup:

You hit it right on the head. Yes, I do have an alternator (OEM).

As I've pointed out previously - I'm just a SBC guy gone bad, but some of you FORD guys know your stuff about the "dark side".

I'm LUV'IN it!!!! :thumbup:

texastomeh

 

-ANOTHER REFERENCE-click here-

7" 3G V-BELT INSTALLATION-

 

THANX KULTULZ!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

That picture and reference are invaluable!!

I knew that I could depend on you!!

texastomeh

 

Also, using the internal regulator will make your AMP lamp inoperative and will not charge properly. The harness has to be modified to draw from the fuse box instead of the IGN SW.

Your explanation here needs explaining.

The Lt Grn/Red wire needs resistance in it's circuit to excite the alternator's regulator or it will not charge.

As in the JPG, you can wire it to the ignition as long as there is an accessory drawing from it with the key on. Your fuse box will do the same, but I like a meter AND the idiot light setup. The resistor is there in case the bulb burns out. :drunk:

 

Your explanation here needs explaining.

No, I need to explain nothing.

 

I guess I've finally found the infallible one....

BTW, I used my dash idiot light AND an ammeter WITHOUT using the 'kit' in your link. Just used the JPG wiring diagram. :welcome:

 

I guess I've finally found the infallible one....

BTW, I used my dash idiot light AND an ammeter WITHOUT using the 'kit' in your link. Just used the JPG wiring diagram. :welcome:

Well, I am overly enjoyed that your mounting worked. In the early series wiring (1G), the resistor employed is a shunt resistor that protects the warning lamp.

I offer information. If you deem it is not correct, fine. But don't imply I have to explain myself. The reason for the two different hookups is fully explained. The kit shown in the tech article is for an easy conversion while appearing OEM installation and without having to go into the OEM harness.

If you desire to play one upmanship, play through. I simply don't have time for it.

 

Listen closely,

I offered advise in a friendly and concise way.

You chose to be blunt and, I'll put it gently, uppity.

I've read your many posts, and you indeed have a wealth of knowledge and contribute in a way I cannot due to many reasons, but, your attitude needs work.

I have done many of these conversions on various makes, not just the various generations of Fords. I did it differently and without buying a kit from anyone.

I did not oneup anyone. You took offense where none could have been perceived by anyone except with a giant ego. :nono:

Now, I'll let texastomeh go on with his install.

 

Guys, :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:

I appreciate all of the inputs, recommendations and opinions!!!!! To be quite honest - the differing opinions is a BIG part of what makes this soooo much fun!! ain: If we all thought alike, we would all be driving six cylinder metallic lime green GREMLINS!!! :drunk:

Now to the serious(?) part: Can/will you recommend a specific year and model of a late year Ford product for which I should I look for a 3G alternator (preferably 130-150 amp) as I search SUMMIT/JEG'S/EBAY/Swap Meets/etc. for the "best fit" for my "63 T'Bird?

I really need the help, so don't be shy now

texastomeh

 

HELLLLLP!!!!! ain: ain: ain:

Now to the serious(?) part: Can/will you recommend a specific year and model of a late year Ford product for which I should I look for a 3G alternator (preferably 130-150 amp) as I search SUMMIT/JEG'S/EBAY/Swap Meets/etc. for the "best fit" for my '63 T'Bird?

I REALLY need some recommendations!! :sweat: :sweat:

You guys don't even have to agree. Even though KULTULZ has never steered me wrong before, I would welcome alternative suggestions.

I would like to get all you FORD guys back into a good helpful mood since I've got some other requests for recommendations and opinions that I need to spring on you - like, what year/model is a good dual reservoir Master Cylinder for my current single reservoir unit?

texastomeh :welcome:

 

I'm in a good mood. The old lady is at the beach for two weeks... :thumbup:

You need a 7" 3G pivot mount;

http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=6

Here is a complete changeover kit with instructions;

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=202