Nobody has any advice?

 

well, I'll weigh in because I've used chassis saver as well as bill hirsch miracle paint, and they're both complete shi1t because I've got rust coming back through in multiple pieces on a Mustang that's been under a roof the last two years being restored (so no elements here). I suspect my problems too have been due to too thin of coats, but it's very difficult to get that stuff on thick enough.

Hardly anybody here (read: the pro's, of which I'm not one) has any thing good to say about these types of paint over rust paints.

The SPI epoxy on the other hand...

Give Barry a call at SPI's tech line, tell him your dilemma, and see what he recommends.

 

I really try to stay away from any post on here that has SPI anywhere in it, as I think it is unethical for me to answer.

But this one I will answer as an epoxy question in general and if Dinger, thinks I crossed the line he can edit or delete.

If you are coating a frame for the factory look as well as chemical and stone chip protection, coat with 2-3 coats of epoxy and leave it in epoxy.
There is no SS paint you can buy in this market that will be as chemical resistant and stone chip resistant as MOST (not all) cured epoxies.

Now if you need a shinny frame like on a 32 then coat the epoxy with paint of your choice.

What I would do here, is use a RED scuff pad and hit the frame real quick and then shoot 2-3 coats of epoxy, weakest point will be the corrosion protection but hopefully that will work out if frame was cleaned good before the other stuff was applied.

 

The frame was completely sandblasted before hand. I even ground the rivets off for the leaf spring brackets to get behind them too.

Thanks for the replies and advice guys
-Justin

 

I really try to stay away from any post on here that has SPI anywhere in it, as I think it is unethical for me to answer.

But this one I will answer as an epoxy question in general and if Dinger, thinks I crossed the line he can edit or delete.


Now if you need a shinny frame like on a 32 then coat the epoxy with paint of your choice.

The only thing that I see that would need editing is your spelling of shiny...

We are fortunate on this website to have some business owners that can give answers to problems "straight from the horses mouth", if you will. The fact that there are a lot of members using your product speaks well for the product, there is no self promotion involved and you take the time to care for these people that have questions speaks volumes for your business. I would encourage any business owner to follow your example, it can only benefit this website and our members. :thumbup: Dan

 

Barry ,IMO,You should mispel more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....

 

Barry ,IMO,You should misspell more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....

LOL, trust me, I don't need to TRY to misspell words.

 

Barry ,IMO,You should mispel more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....

I am tempted to re sandblast it but I'm not sure how easily this stuff will come off. Also out of curiousity how glossy is the black spi epoxy? Is it about the same gloss as the gray?

Thanks
-Justin

 

It will come off very easy, either by blasting or washing off with thinner.

If truck is just a driver the epoxy will compensate for the weakness with two to three good coats.

If a rock climber or off roader, I would blast it off, easier to do now then later.

Gloss is same if sprayed the same.