Yes you can use those with mild nitrous applications. Would it be better to run forged . . . well yeah.

Be smart and try to keep the temp down. Run a wet setup, timing retard unit, and ONLY let it activate at WOT.

I would recommend purchasing a book written about the subject and doing some research before doing this project.

It can be safe but keep this in mind . . . if you can only afford 400 bucks, could you afford rebuilding the engine in a worst case situation?

 

One of the problems with nitrous is its all too easy to keep going up in horsepower. I would try at 50hp first, and remember the higher you go the more risk you run. Just for safety you may consider an MSD retard box.


Ben

 

Here are 2 sites that explain everything you need to know.

http://www.gofastzone.com/techarticles/nitrous101/nitrous101.asp

http://www.gofastzone.com/techarticles/massmatics/brand x massmatics.htm

Read the set-up requirements for hyper. pistons, most do not prepare them as necessary.
You only hear the bad problems with the pistons, never the good when installed correctly.
http://kb-silvolite.com/index2.php

Its all in the combination of all the parts for your application.
LOL

 

pistons

I am assuming you are talking about the KB hypereutectic pistons???

If so there are some things you need to pay attention to during the build. Make sure you set the top ring gap per there instructions. I usually go .002/.003 bigger then there max gap for the top ring.

I have engines with these pistons running 100/150 shot on them with no drama. But i also had a N/A engine destroyed with these pistons because of detionation. They will not toletate ANY detonation at all...!!!!! Make sure when you start with the nitrous you start with a real safe tune. Keep a close eye on the plugs with every change you make.

Oh yea like ben stated nitrous is adictive you will be at the 200 shot before you know it... so i would recomend that you save a few extra $$$$$$ and just put the forged pistons in. If you look into the probe pistons they are really reasonable priced....

Keith

 

You can also set it up so the nitrous comes on gradually. Eliminating that 100 horsepower slam you will have.

 

Hypereutectic pistons are cast, just thought I should point that out.

 

What about their casting process makes them different than standard cast pisions?

 

Here's a bit of info taken directly from the Federal Mogul site.

I have a set of their Speed Pro Hypereutectics (H345NP30) in my 355 Chevy. And will definately be using a 100 shot that will be controlled to only come in at WOT where there is enough fuel to help prevent the dreaded nitrous-lean condition.

(Casting differences from std and hypers are highlighted in italics) The hypers have silicon imbedded in them to help deal with heat and pressures.



Speed-Pro’s cast hypereutectic material is a relative newcomer to the performance market, and has several attractive features. Our hypereutectic pistons operate perfectly with standard ring end gaps and have conventional ring land locations. When compared to traditional cast pistons, which are not designed for performance use, the hypereutectics are significantly stronger, particularly in the highly loaded ring land, skirt and pin bore areas. Our FM244 Alloy contains 16.5 percent silicon and has excellent tensile and fatigue strength. This material’s improved thermal characteristics, its greater hardness and the increased resistance to scuffing permit tight bore clearances which help minimize noise on cold engine start up. This quiet operation, along with a lower cost are the primary advantages over a comparable forged piston. These pistons are an excellent choice for street performance, “claimer” oval track engines and bracket racing use. They will also work well in moderate supercharged applications and are suitable for towing and marine use.


Here's the link...There is also a section near the bottom to help youdecide which type of piston is right for your application.
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_2905_6800,00.html

 

hey guys i apriciate the info, i found a local engine builder with a set of je forged pistons (for a nitrous app) for 440$ for the set, the price kicks *** for what they are so im gunna take it and he told me the same thing about kb's, no detonation at all or they crack:smash: :thumbup:

 

Probe Forged Pistons

Contact Brian at www.adperformance.com

 

I think your going to be alot happier with the JE pistons. There are a lot of changes that they make for the nitrous pistons vs. standard.

So do I see plans for a 150 shot nos now?

 

I think your going to be alot happier with the JE pistons. There are a lot of changes that they make for the nitrous pistons vs. standard.

So do I see plans for a 150 shot nos now?

yes, but the Probe pistons are in his price range...JE pistons arent... SRP by JE maybe...

2wld4u

 

yes, but the Probe pistons are in his price range...JE pistons arent... SRP by JE maybe...

2wld4u

??? I think you missed the part where he said he is going to buy the JE pistons.

 

unfortunatly my kit only alows for a 100 shot at max but i hear they make an upgraded plate for around 120$ which is good for up to 200 :drool: and yes im gunna buy the je pistons, they only want 440$ for them which i think is a bargun sence u can't touch them for that much in jegs

 

Great I hope they work out for you. As a sugestion not that they would cheat you but if they are true nitrous pistons, JE usually drops the top ring down about .050" to .100 extra" . Make sure you ask how far down the top ring sits. For no more then you want to run it may not be a big deal, but when you start to do high levels of nos it becomes more important of an issue.


Ben

 

Throw this question out there:

How many shots do you usually get out of a 10 pound bottle, about 10 shots correct? And what does it usually cost to fill the bottle?

 

nitrous

you they rate it in punds par minute but u usualy go by how many seconds you hold the button down, a 10 pound bottle averages 80-90 drag strip runs (aprox 7-10 seconds of pressing the button per run) at a 75 hp level (higher the hp of the shot the more laffing gas u use and there fore the fewer runs u get outta a bottle) and my supplyer chages me 45$ to fill my 10 pound bottle from completly empty, about 22$ when its at half this info is straight from the edelbrock manuel that came whith my kit and the prices are from speed-o-motive in west covina ca

thanks for the info on the je pistons, i didn't know that, and this place (speed-o-motive) has tryed to pull a fast one on my dad be4 so thats good to know (i only still go there because its the only local speed shop i know of, i get everything from jegs or summit usualy)

 

pistons and NOS

I once ran a 1973 454" chev pickup motor with stock cast pistons with a 100HP shot with no problems. But then it was a low budget motor with only a cam and head work so it did not matter much, as I only paid $125 for the motor..

 

a 10 pound bottle averages 80-90 drag strip runs (aprox 7-10 seconds of pressing the button per run) at a 75 hp level


(higher the hp of the shot the more laffing gas u use and there fore the fewer runs u get outta a bottle) and my supplyer chages me 45$ to fill my 10 pound bottle from completly empty, about 22$ when its at half this info is straight from the edelbrock manuel that came whith my kit and the prices are from speed-o-motive in west covina ca

)

How many 1/8 mile passes????? Surely you jest.

 

Nos ?

I had a 15# bottle, on a 454" 400 hp with a 100 hp shot, and I can tell you for sure, there is no way I could have possibly got more than 5-7 runs on a bottle, although I never used the NOS on the strip, it was street use only, but NO WAY !!! or did I use it more than I thought ?

 

If your getting 80-90 passes out of a 10 pound bottle you must be running somthing like an .00000003 nitrous jet... ;-)