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Trying to tune this Quadrajet

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1.7K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  75gmck25  
#1 ·
Hello, I've been trying to get the tuning down on this carburetor as it makes a pretty strong gas smell. In all the images online the idle mixture screws are flathead and easy to turn but mine look like this and are pretty hard to reach, is there a specific tool I need to use? Ive tried needle nose pliers with little luck. Thanks!
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#2 ·
#7 ·
Hello, I've been working on my project car for some time now, and have started to tackle issues with my sbc 350. For a long time I have had trouble starting the engine after recently running it. (for example stopping for gas). I fixed the choke and that made this issue better but not totally fixed. Now my biggest issue is the milage. I spent a night driving around town practicing manual driving for the first time, and noticed my gas being used up very fast. I ended the night with a calculated 5.2 mpg. This seams unrealisticaly low even for my setup. The carburator is a rochester quadrajet but it also has a edelbrock badge, not sure if that changes anything. I am doing all of this for the first time and could really appreciate some tips. I both want to be able to do it myself but also cannot afford the $300 quote for a "very basic tune up" from my many local shops. I have the timing set to 12 degrees BTDC. Please ask for any details I left out and thank you!
 
#11 ·
It is using the mechanical fuel pump from the engine. I can check the float but my only concern is would I need to get a gasket kit to reassemble it? I have a cruise planned this weekend and might want to wait for after that unless its something I can do in half a day.

I think this is the hole you were referring to, not sure what it is for but it does not have a plug.

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#12 ·
That’s the access hole for the apt (adjustable part throttle).
If you’re going to drive it to the cruise just cover it with some duct tape for now. The fix involves carb tearing apart.
If it’s running rich then show us your spark plugs.
always a risk of tearing a gasket.
 
#15 ·
I will do this in a couple minutes just one question. I have an electric choke, do you want me to have it powered on for the picture? To be honest I still dont entirely understand the usage of the choke, I have it wired to a switch and just turn it on whenever I start the car so that it is open once the car is at operating temp, and leave it on for the rest of the drive. Is this the correct operation?
 
#22 ·
bushing kit for primary shaft, epoxy bottom plugs (not sure if I would do that one), shorter accelerator pump (more volume). I am just regurgitating these from an episode of power nation as things I might as well do since I am taking it apart, if those aren't nessisary I won't do them.
 
#21 ·
I was thinking the same thing RW asked Online mods stop.

your best bet would be open it up you have some time to talk with RW and take some baby step’s.

you need to see what’s in there jet wise also more engine specs will help.

if you have a few bucks buy this book and read it. It will help you understand the workings of the QJet.

 
#23 ·
Bushing kit is a maybe. On a high mileage carb. Yours doesn’t look that used. In fact, I don’t think it’s been apart since new. The well plugs are for older carbs. They’re sealed better on the newer ones. You don’t need to mod the accelerator pump. You can adjust the linkage.
Buy a book like suggested.
 
#28 ·
#30 ·
Also check ro see that the vacuum advance is working, since its primary purpose is to improve gas mileage at cruise speeds. If base timing 12 degrees BTDC, when you pull vacuum on the advance it should advance your timing about 18-20 degrees (about 30-32 total). If you don’t have a dial-back timing light to get a good measurement, at least verify that you get it to advance when vacuum is applied.

When there is no power to the electric choke it will move closed, so that when you start the truck (cold) you will have less air coming in, which gives you a richer mixture. The choke also move the linkage to a higher idle.
As the choke heats up from power being applied, it moves a curled bi-metallic strip inside and the choke gradually opens. Your original choke may have used engine heat to operate, , and the electric choke is a conversion. To simplify your operation and not require a separate switch, check for a wire to the wipers that only has power when the ignition is on, and use that for choke power.