Qjet fan boy here. If you can tune it and know the voodoo, can't be beat.

 

You mean like a vacuum gage and twisting some screws or jets and internal parts

 

The 97 is a Vortec if a 350 it’s an L31 option engine. These are roller blocks there are many good roller cams.

The Vortec 350 is easy to build 390-420 horse engine without going crazy with anything.

Vortec heads are pretty crack prone so before anything the heads you have need to be throughly cleaned and if visual inspection doesn’t reveal cracks then a professional inspection with Zy-Glo or MagnaFlux is in order before spending money on a head reduild. If the heads need a valve job and guide repair the cost of that starts to narrow the distance to a pair of EBay aluminum heads.

The go to roller cam for near 400 horses is the LT4HOT, this is a bolt in for your block since it already has the 300 horse roller in it. GM rates is engine at 250 horse most the difference is how power is measured today versus pre 1972. With a similarly timed, though flat tappet cam, the preSMOG 350 with 4bbl was rated 290/300 horse on the SAE gross power test. The same engine the year when the SAE net test was mandated delivered 250-255 horse. The difference being the gross test was without accessories but coolant pump with no fan and open exhaust. The net test is accessories mounted, coolant pump and fan plus an exhaust system of manifolds and head pipes. So roughly there is a 50 horse drop between SAE gross and SAE net power ratings due to systemic losses. The LT4HOT specs 279/287 at zero with 218/228 at .050 with lobe lift of .328 which is .492 with a 1.5 rocker or .524 with a 1.6 rocker off hand the Howard’s 18115-10 is a fair likeness but there are others. The factory push rods you have work with this but you will have to work the lift limits of the Vortec’s by one of several methods. Given the life expectancies of flat tappet cams your way ahead of lobe and lifter problems by keeping to the factory roller even at some extra cost.

The 92 has a better rear axle than the older S10/15 trucks, it won’t like tire burning launches for too long but otherwise can handle everyday life behind a built 350.

Bogie

 

What work would I have to do to work the lifting limits of the vortec And yea I'm thinking about getting a 8.8 out of a ford explorer and once my truck is up and going work on getting it shortened and making it where its got the chevy bolt pattern i have no idea how much thats going to cost never done anything this big but I know I'm going to need a stronger axle because I'm not putting a v8 in my little truck just for gas mileage (ie worse lol) it's definitely going to get enjoyed quite a bit I'm just hoping by the time it breaks the other axle will be ready

 

Ummm... sure. That, and good instincts, and setting the choke rod just right, and the right spring for the primary step up, and the spring for the air door, and the accelerator pump shot, and the.... Qjets aren't quite like an Edelbrock. Setting them up can be daunting, but if you have the touch, they are the most accurately-metering carb on the planet.

 

To the OP, don’t forget to visit the link below if you haven’t.

S-10 Forum

S10forum is the community to discuss the S-Series, Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon. Join to discuss rebuilds, modifications, tech articles and more!

www.s10forum.com

Bogie

 

I did and I got what I expected from them which wasn't my question answered it was what I should be doing/am doing wrong/what they would do (don't put money in the 350 put an ls in it) I'm trying to do as much of this my self (for the pride of built not bought and cost savings) and I have always liked the 350 and like the simplicity of a carburetor or even a sniper system I don't I'm not good with electronics and computers and tuning and this is my first motor swap I want it simple and like the idea of it looking kinda period correct

 

For tuning and setting up qjets get this book and read it.

Amazon.com

Then when you are up and running and ready to set carb up correct, you can call Cliff, he is a super nice guy and he will help you dial it in.

 

If you can't do the 8.8" housing shortening and bolt pattern change yourself......by the time you buy an 8.8" core, pay someone to shorten it and add the correct spring perches plus buy new axles.....you could have bought a ready to run 9" Ford from Quick Performance.

 

I hope it wouldn't cost a shop around 2 grand to do two cuts weld it back together and move the spring perches I won't be getting it rebuilt and as for the axles while your at the junk yard you pull the long axle out and put another short axle in so you have both axles you need as for the bolt pattern I can do that with a good drill this truck won't be a show truck or a race truck it going to be just basically a fun toy/project I'm going to throw it together with what I can find and feel it out if I like it and it vibes with me then it will get to see the real money and good parts if not I'll junk the truck throw the motor and trans in a c10 and call it a day no point in spending thousands and thousands on a truck that's only max worth 5 grand (definitely not mine) that's why it's a budget friendly build but yes if it costs me 2 grand to get the axle done I'm definitely just buying one already done on the internet

 

My daily driver is a '92 S10. V8 swapped in late 2007 to a 350(355) and then upgraded to a 383(385) a little over a year ago. The factory rear end got a used limited slip carrier out of a 4th gen Camaro rear end and hasn't given me any trouble. I don't race it, but there have been plenty of times where I'm not very nice to it. This is with a 700r4 and a mild converter. Rear tires have been 285/35 and 285/40 on 18x10 wheels. I can't speak to how the 5 speed may contribute to giving the rear end more of a beating.

It doesn't take much to make these little trucks fun to drive. If you just carb swapped the stock L31 it would still feel pretty snappy. I'm not trying to talk you out of a cam swap, but a true 125k Vortec 5.7 should have a lot of life left in it.

 

My daily driver is a '92 S10. V8 swapped in late 2007 to a 350(355) and then upgraded to a 383(385) a little over a year ago. The factory rear end got a used limited slip carrier out of a 4th gen Camaro rear end and hasn't given me any trouble. I don't race it, but there have been plenty of times where I'm not very nice to it. This is with a 700r4 and a mild converter. Rear tires have been 285/35 and 285/40 on 18x10 wheels. I can't speak to how the 5 speed may contribute to giving the rear end more of a beating.

It doesn't take much to make these little trucks fun to drive. If you just carb swapped the stock L31 it would still feel pretty snappy. I'm not trying to talk you out of a cam swap, but a true 125k Vortec 5.7 should have a lot of life left in it.

Agreed depending on where I'm at with the getting a 8.8 and having it modified I'm probably just going to weld the stock one in mine which should make it alittle stronger but I plan on beating on my truck quite a bit I guess I'm not much of a fan of having tread on my rear tires much lolz and I don't doubt it would be fun I had a 78 c10 stick with the stock 350 and that was a blast not very fast but I definitely had no problems keeping my tires bald I just figure do the cam swap now while it's out and before I have the chance to be content with it and hopefully that will mean when I want more I'll know it's time to get serious

 

Looking at the small photo that led me to open up this thread -- I thought we had an S10 with rear-mounted motor at first.

"Viking shocks from ebay" -- I'd recommend calling them direct. There are alot of guys on ebay, big names even that don't have the shocks in stock and they are just playing middle man between you and Viking. Ask me how I know if you want.

I'd get that motor on a stand and start going through it. You may find that you want to invest more into it now so when you drop it into the S10, you have less to worry about. At a minimum, I would get a bore scope and peak inside of the cylinders, make sure it's building compression etc.

 

Haha yea temporarily it was rear mounted lolz I drove around with it back there for about a month cuz it was stuck back there I hadn't bought a cherry picker yet 😅 the motor was just too good of a deal to turn down and was now a guarantee that I had to do the swap

I got them for a pretty good price and they came with the springs to support my needs (v8 plus being lowered) got them from a really reputable speed shop in California they just where selling them on eBay too
As for the motor I heard it run and even drove the Tahoe around alittle before it had its heart was brutally ripped out it had been wreaked in the rear I don't have anything to worry about on the motor plus the junkyard here sells motors for 300 a pop with a 60 day warranty if it starts having issues I'll probably go buy a different motor and have it bored and rebuild with better rods and pistons this isn't a show truck or a race truck or even a daily driver it's a fun haver it's getting thrown to gather as my first motor swap the truck and running gear will get more and better attention once I have decided this is the set up I want I'm still not sure I'd I want a 70s c10 or s10 blazer or this truck but the truck is what I have so it's on the chopping block first
But thank you for your concern

 

Welcome to the s10 v8 club. I myself once had a 1986 chevy s10 with a nice 400 plus horsepower build in it and I can say those trucks are fun with even a bone stock v8 in them. I sold it years back do to issues and such but still own a 96 s10 with a mild setup and nothing over fancy. I just rebuilt my rearend in my 96 since I don't ever race mine or take it to the track and I am easy on it and don't even do burnouts and stuff.

Yeah I know it sounds boring but after spending a lot of green into something I don't want to risk loosing that. I just like to cruise and I just built my rearend with brand name stuff. I got a Detroit trutrack Posi unit and new heavy duty axles and forget the name but I think Mosier and I also got 3.42 rear gears in this thing. Have been in there for over three years now without any trouble. My truck when I got it had a 350 vortec in it so it already had a roller cam which is the only thing I would use nowadays since the flat tappet cams are risky to do.

Getting 375 to 400 horses out of your vortec is not hard with the right parts and stuff. I am glad your one of the last few who actually likes the old school 350 vs the LS engines and nothing against the LS motors which are better then any G1 SBC but I still like the old school stuff. If you were to give Mike Jones from Jonescams, he can set you up with a good cam that will work good with those vortec heads and you can also just use factory roller lifters with it if your lift is not past .530 lift with 1.5 rocker arms.

My current setup is a very mild 350 Dart SHP with a set of Dart SHP 180cc heads and a custom grind from Mike Jones which specs at 264/268 216/220 @50 107/112 lobe separation and 510/510 lift. I use a dual plane intake with a once inch 4 hole spcer and I top it off with whatever Holley 600 or 650 cfm carb I want to use on it sine I own a variety of carbs that I can use from a vacuum secondary, double pumper, and an HP style carb.

Take a lot of advice from Bogie as I have not seen the legendary Frankenmouse he has in his garage but from what he has said over the years it sounds like a sweet ride. The vortec engine is a nice motor even in stock trim with just a few upgrades. When I first got my current truck it already had a stock 350 vortec in it and even with it having over a 100,000 miles on it and a slight rod knock from a bearing going bad, it sure still ran good and that was with everything stock and made into a carb deal. It had an Edelbrock 600 on it with dual plane intake and basic HEI distributor.

That thing could fry tires and get away from you if you was not careful lol. Good luck on your truck and hope to hear it run one day.

 

Thank you so much yea I understand not wanting to mess your up that's why version 1.0 is on the cheap from there is a game of the next weakest link lolz as time goes it will get to the point it's too nice for wreaking havoc on the town lolz
Plans may have changed slightly hopefully if all works out my truck will be getting a 4.3 and the donor will be getting the v8 I found a 1994 gmc jimmy 2wd stick 4.3 for a good price (a blazer jimmy has always been one of my favorites and I will definitely like it more then a truck) but only time will tell if I don't get it I'll stick to the original plan and v8 swap the sonoma
BTW thank you for the information thank everyone you all have been soo helpful I'm hoping this is a quick and easy swap but not counting on it with it being a stick build and me doing it 🤣

 

Hi guy new here found you though Google and the tread I saw really impressed me with the detail the people gave (not that I understood most of it)

Now to what I got going on in the spring I plan on doing a somewhat simple kinda budget friendly v8 swap on my 1992 gmc sonoma extended cab 2wd 2.8 5 speed I have already got a bunch of parts for it and still have a few more needed till I got everything I think I need (till it's time to do the job and I find out all the parts I needed to do the job lol)

Now the set up I'm going for I have a vortec 350 out of a 1997 Tahoe with 125,xxx miles a nv3500 out of a 1996 chevy 1500 unknown miles (junkyard part) with the 305 an ebay vortec carb intake ebay hei distributor a screw in stud kit v8 mounts from jagsthatrun the v8 swap book from them too front viking coil overs from ebayand 4 80s camaro five spoke oem rims there's a few more things I have got but that's the jist of it

And for my questions I have heard you can make 350-400 with the vortec motor with simple upgrades cam springs intake and carb ect...
I'm not wanting at least yet to have to do any machine work I heard you can use ls beehive springs to get more lift and that the lift those springs can handle (with a cam) is perfect any more and the motor can't flow good enough stock ether way I don't want more power I'm pretty sure my trans wouldn't want to stay part of the team any ways or rear end which the stock ones going to probably break shortly after I get it finished any ways

What would be a good cam and carb for it I would need push rod lengths or part numbers if those need changed

I was thinking for a carb a stock Quadrajet or a holly street demon 650

Again kinda budget friendly options View attachment 633195

Engine masters did a shootout on budget carbs and the Summit 4 barrel was the best out of the box carb. Get yourself a pushrod tool, to make it easy to get the exact length you need. It's hard to have someone tell you what you need without knowing if anything has been milled, or changed in the valve train.