[Tynan918]

It's that easy! But if the guides are worn the new seals will be quickly ruined. At least you can check your guides by seeing if the valve can be wiggled back and forth in the valve guide when the spring is off. If needs guides, I wouldn't take the heads off to fix them - those heads just aren't worth the cost and effort for new guides, new valves, and a valve job.

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I'm not going to go too deep into the heads, I'm just going to do the valve seals to see if there's any more internal damage.. I'm not going any farther in the valve seals

 

[Tynan918]

Besides the valve spring compressor tool Is there any other special tools I'm going to need for this job ?

 

[Tynan918]

 

[Tynan918]

 

[Tynan918]

 

[Tynan918]

Late post...

I started on this yesterday evening and finishing up cylinder #7, then cylinder #2, then valve adjustment, put everything back together then done.

 

[Tynan918]

What about the valve guides? Shot or not? This is a point where you can really tell. All you have to do is wiggle the valve with the spring and seal off.

I assume the valve guides are good. I wiggled, them used a hammer and socket to break loose the keepers and to push the seals down all the way...the valve stems never budged.

 

[Tynan918]

Finished.

Now on to valve adjustment...

 

[Tynan918]

wiggled back and forth with both spring and seal off, not up and down?

Yes, none of them budged whatsoever.

 

[Tynan918]

like this vlave guides bad youtube at DuckDuckGo

WATCH THIS - (this one is really bad)

Damn, yea nothing like that. I had no play at the stems withwout the seals on it.

 

[Tynan918]

- YouTube

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youtube.com

 

[Tynan918]

1/4 Turn From 1/4 Turn in From 0 Lash Results - 305 SBC - Valve Adjustment Part 2

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Tynan918]

Going 1/4 turn tighter after tapping noise goes away for each valve?

The 3/4 @ 0 lash we set during the camshaft swap back in February this year was definitely too tight...it caused hard starts, lack of power, limited distributor advance, and lowered my compression from 185-190 psi to 150 psi.

Noise goes away with additional 1/4" turn in but power seems to be lost, begins to stumble at idle as if it's too tight...a lot I had to back off from the additional 1/4" turn from 1/4 turn in @ 0 lash to get it sounding right. Takes off like a bullet and throttle response is crisp without the vacuum advance connected and no 3 ton floor jack and my heavy tool bag in the trunk...vacuum advance connected and/or jack and tools in the trunk slows things down a bit.

I'm also now able to advance my distributor further like before.

Oil may also be low but oil pressure shows good pressure...about 20-25 psi @ 800 RPM in idle.

Currently running it with the noise in the second video, can't hear it as much with valve covers in place and at cruising and highway speeds.

 

[Tynan918]

Here is spark plug # 1...a month after the valve seal replacement...

 

[Tynan918]

Here is spark plug # 1...a month after the valve seal replacement... View attachment 631933

I guess this means my piston rings aren't leaking oil ?

 

[Tynan918]

First time I've removed the spark plugs for inspection since this valve seal job 4 months ago.

About a week prior to removing the spark plugs, I used Seafoam Spray in the carburetor primaries, but didn't keep the RPM high enough through the cleaning process, and it fouled all the spark plugs. Cleaned up the spark plugs and reused them for about 100-150 miles, then removed them to see what we have pictured.

Looks like 1,2,3, and 7 are oil fouled or rich condition fouled, and 4,5,6, and 8 are normal.

If these are oil fouled, does that indicate the new valve seals are now worn, or is it worn piston rings ?

The wet and dry compression tests should tell this, right ?