Hot Rod Forum banner

What headers might fit this application?

5.2K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  ericnova72  
#1 ·
If my video uploads, it'll show the clearances im working with. What type of headers
might fit inside those radius arms?

Image
 
#2 · (Edited)
Sprint Car, Roadster, and possibly Fat Fender and Street Rod headers. Maybe a Fenderwell style.
That is, if you are wanting to go out and over the front suspension wishbone arms.

You can see Sprint and Street rod/Rat rod, and some Fenderwell styles at Schoenfeld headers, T-bucket roadster headers are all over Ebay in stainless steel, along with Fat Fender style.
Schoenfeld Headers - Schoenfeld Headers Home

Here is Fat Fender well, in stainless no less Meant to fit 1935-48 Chevy car.
If you search around you can likely find a view of installed on a engine so you can see relationship and angle. Originally Patriot's design.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD FAT FENDER WELL HEADER FOR SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 265-400 V8 | eBay
Ceramic coated
1935-1948 SBC Chevy 283-350 Fat Fenderwell Headers Ceramic BPH-1014H | eBay

This is Lakes style, also in stainless
SBC Chevy Lake Style Lakester Street Rat Rod Headers Stainless 1 5/8" Tubes | eBay

T-bucket roadster sidepipe style in stainless
For Chevy SBC V8 265-400 T-Bucket Street Rod Stainless Exhaust Header Manifold | eBay
Stainless Steel Chevy SBC 265 350 400 T-Bucket Roadster Exhaust Manifold Headers | eBay
fits Chevy Sbc 350 Classic T-Bucket Street Rod Stainless Steel Exhaust Headers | eBay


The Marvin Baumann tractor a link has been posted for in your earlier thread on this tractor conversion is a T-bucket roadster header, Sprint style tube routing.
Just like this
SPRINT ROADSTER HEADERS,T-BUCKET,SBC 265-400 V8,STAINLESS STEEL,STREET ROD | eBay

Here is a third roadster style header, called the Hi-Boy or High Boy style
NEW 1932 HI BOY HEADERS,CERAMIC HOT COATED,OVAL PORT,SBC 265-400,1 5/8",ROADSTER | eBay
They have been available in a import stainless version at a much lower cost, but I don't see any at the momont....wait a few weeks and likely the next boatload shows up if you like this style and want stainless.

Schoenfeld also has straight up pulling truck/tractor style stacks also, if that floats your boat....

Or would you prefer something to stay inboard of the suspension arms?? Going to be a bit tougher to find other than the typical shorty headers.
 
#3 ·

Click on above. Make sure you get headers that will clear straight plug SBC heads. You can mount them upside down and have twin stacks. I'd put on glass packs or header glass packs after you get sick of the loud pipes rattling your brains out.
 
#9 ·
2.5" corvette ramhorns.
They flow great with minimal port work and will outlast the engine.

Oh and the aftermarket ones are cheap.

Someone talking about porting. They sell these already ported and have more info on their website.


Now because they point straight down the bottom of the exhaust will end up around the bottom of the oil pan. Which becomes a issue with some crossmembers. But you should be good running a 90 then going straight back staying tight to the transmission or 60 or 45 going out the sides in front of the tires after the 90 with your application.
 
#11 ·
Since the rams horns go straight down in the middle I think they will work. Might have to have a slight "kink" to the inside right after the manifold, but I don't think so. The radius rods don't really move side to side -- very little even on really uneven terrain (fixed rear axle tilts entire tractor shortly after front wheels tilt... and the front axle doesn't tilt much). Other than that the block hugger headers will work, but I think the rams horns would look a lot better on the tractor... more factory and less hot-rod.
 
#13 ·

Click on above. These could work for your tractor. Or click on below, These could also work.

 
#14 ·
#19 ·
I thought i would try some ramshorns.
They actually fit worse than the huggers.
With the huggers, i clear the radius rods (barely, by a 1/16"), but not the steering rods.
The rams horn collector actually sits over/above the radius rods.

Id say if i want perfect, ill probably have to build a set.
 

Attachments

#20 · (Edited)

Click on above. These are rear dump shorty headers. If you swap them side for side they become front dump headers. The most room you have for exhaust dump is up front. That may work but may interfere with the mechanical fuel pump. You need straight down dump headers that exit just below the front exhaust port like I did on my LS1 powered street rod (see picture) except I kept them rear dump. OR go outside the radius rods and steering drag links like Marvin Baumann did. His are modified (extended) T Bucket headers. By now, I expect you're sick of me mentioning Marvin's work. Keep in mind, he has done this with a SBC, SBF, SB Mopar, Ford Flat Head V8, a Honda Valkyrie engine, and a Gas Turbine Turboshaft engine. He's been there and done that and his site has tons of information and pictures. Reinventing things are very costly in time and $$$. Are you having fun yet?
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Im very familiar with marvins work. Thats how i figured out how to wire my starter to the tractors original neutral safety switch.

The headers you linked above look promising but look like they will both interfere with alt and fuel pump.

To top it off, one of the cheap chinese huggers i got was hitting the block at the collector. Had to grind it a tad.

I think ive got equal time in assembly as i do with modifying cheap foreign garbage parts that dont fit right lol.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The alt can go up top because you have tons of room between the top of the engine intake manifold and the bottom of the hood. As I posted earlier, an idler will provide good wrap around the WP pulley and allow belt tension adjustment. You can also go with an electric fuel pump. Or, you can also go with hand made custom headers. Everything is a compromise. Welcome to the world of Hot Rodding.
 
#25 ·