Just a little side note...
If I had looked the oil pan (Milodon 31502) up on Summit (I bought it through Amazon), and paid attention to all of the attributes, there is one that says "Stroker Clearanced"... and the value is "No".

That's one of the reasons I really like Summit... they have the most thorough details on most of their parts.

 

Fact that it is Dart block should not make any difference to the windage tray mounted off the main studs, their location is same as a stock block.

I've always used the Milodon louvered tray on the 383's and 406's I've done.
#32100 for 350 main bolt spacing, driver side dipstick
#32101 for 400 main bolt spacing, driver side dipstick.

#32102 is 350 main, passenger side dipstick.

I use Milodon's rear cap mounted pan baffle also.

The Canton #20-914 looks really interesting to me, I'd like to try it sometime.

 

#32102 is 350 main, passenger side dipstick.

I use Milodon's rear cap mounted pan baffle also.

The Canton #20-914 looks really interesting to me, I'd like to try it sometime.

Yeah, after I wrote the original post I looked on Summit's site.
I put the 32102 in my cart, and also the windage tray studs.

I just looked, and I see the 32500 baffle.
It's only $6.95 so I'll pick that up too.

Thanks for the input!

 

I used the power products " stepped sump drag race pan" from Competition Products . I have the scat 9000 lightweight stroker crank. No leaks , fit well , no clearance problems , has windage control & a crank scraper , make sure to get the pump pickup..

 

Last couple I did I just bought the pan with all those features built in, and only added the rear cap pan baffle. Pricing on pans has come down a lot from what it used to be.
Last one was Moroso pan with screen and scraper and flared sump, I don't recall the number.

 

Last couple I did I just bought the pan with all those features built in, and only added the rear cap pan baffle. Pricing on pans has come down a lot from what it used to be.

Yeah, I have a Milodon pan that says it's for the Dart SHP block, fits a Chevelle properly (most pans hit the tie rods), and has the windage tray built in.
The problem is that one of the counterweights hit the windage tray. I think it only hit when I took the engine to 4000 for a second while driving. I didn't hear any noises at any other time.

Putting some foot pressure on it might solve the problem, but since there's no [easy] way to verify it, I'm thinking that the other windage tray is just worth the peace of mind, since you can adjust it where you want it.
It's just money, right?...

 

So I just bought a Milodon windage tray for my Dart SHP block.
Right-Hand dipstick sbc tray... I didn't see any other options, except that they have one for a 400...
Installed the tray mounting studs, went to mount the tray, and... it doesn't fit.

So apparently the SHP (mine has 350 journals) has different spacing on the main cap bolts than a factory block...
I haven't seen anything yet indicating that, but that seems to be the case.
The studs are further apart than the placement of the holes in the tray.

Someone must have run into this before... do I need the 400 tray, or will that not work either?

Any input will be appreciated...

 

If it is about .100" each hole too narrow(.200" total), that is apparrently what they do is use the block cast for 400 main spacing and then just machine whatever main bearing bore size is needed.

I know they do the cylinder bore that way, both the 4.00" bore and 4.125" bore blocks are both with the same water jacket core, both size blocks will take a max 4.185" bore size.

Makes sense to do the mains that way too...one casting, and one main cap size, just final finish bore to whatever spec is needed for the block part number. I don't know that for sure, haven't used an SHP block yet....but I know the Little M is that way.

 

Yeah, that's what I figured.
Then I also found out that the forward mounting studs hit the pan.
You have to tap the bolt holes further down in order for the studs to fit.

So I decided to just "adjust" (with a dead-blow hammer) my pan-mounted windage tray.
Another $140 spent for nothing... gotta love it.
Maybe they'll get used in the future...

 

In the stock block 400's I've done, the front pair of ARP main studs for a windage tray use won't clear a stock pan profile either, takes a couple of well placed dents or pressed impressions in the pan to make clearance.

Stock GM windage tray studs for the 1970 LT-1 350 /Z28 baffle will clear a reground 400 crank and stock rods in a stock block 350/383 stroker application if you put 1 thin 3/8" stainless washer between the end of the stud and the tray to get just a hair more space.
That stock GM long Z28 tray won't fit in a standard car pan with the long flat oil baffle/shelf welded in it....you have to remove that baffle, or dent it severely at each of the 4 forward stud locations

 

Just curious if you've ever tapped the main cap bolt holes further...?
The Milodon stud kit that I bought tells you that you must tap those holes 1/4-3/8" further in order for them to fit properly.
They refer to it as "bottom-tapping".

 

Not for this particular instance, but I have bottom tapped holes before. You need an actual bottom tap...or make one by cutting the first 1/4" or so off a common pointed plug tap. You need the tap to cut full diameter threads clear to it's tip, so that it full taps all the way to the very bottom of the hole.
The stud holes in the block are already drilled deeper than they are currently tapped, done that way to avoid chip build up binding and breaking the taps in the line machined process at GM.
I would guess Dart probably does the same.

Not hard to do, just go easy and back break the chip being cut by the tap frequently, and keep the tap lubed. Cast iron goes pretty easy by hand, but you still don't want the hassle of breaking a tap off.

 

Yeah, I only pulled the pistons out, so my crank, timing cover, etc. are still in place.
That may be a project in the future, but not now.

Thanks for the input Eric!