Hot Rod Forum banner

Wiring an Actuator - Dual Pole Relay?

2 reading
9.4K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  Joe G  
#1 ·
:cool: OK, so the guys in this forum really, really helped me understand HOW to wire a Relay and HOW to get them to work on my keyless door entry system! With that knowledge tucked into my vault I'm moving on to the next issue. I'm installing a 1300LB Power Actuator in the Bed of my 1990 Chev Lowrider so that my bed will Tilt Sideways, towards the passenger side! I just need advice on HOW to wire the Actuator switch.

The Actuator has TWO wires PERIOD. Connect the Red to Power and Black to Negative to "EXTEND" the Actuator and REVERSE the wires to RETRACT the Actuator. Both wires are really small gauge.....probably 18ga, and the motor is geared really low and it's super-dooper quiet so I don't imagine there's a lot of current running through the wires. Purchased Actuator on E-Bay and the instructions say zippo about needing ANY relay nor how to wire the thing up other than what I described above, as far as operation is concerned. :confused:

QUESTION: How in the world do you wire the switch? Is a special Switch needed? Would it be possible to use Channel 3 and Channel 4 of my AutoLoc key-fob, combined with Dual Pole relays or are the relays not needed? I would like to use Channel 3 to power it UP and Channel 4 to power it DOWN. Keep in mind the "transmitter" basically completes a "negative" connection for the circuit as opposed to "sending" power.

BTW: I've got a gearhead buddy (who happens to work as an engineer for a local hospital and he trouble shoots and calibrates their heart monitoring equipment, X-Rays machines, etc...and he has his opinion about how to resolve this but I told him I'd wait to hear what you guys have to offer! LOL! He's curious as well :thumbup: )

THANKS! :drool:
 
#2 ·
5 pole power window switch.

If you can get hold of a GM wiring diagram you can follow the wiring of the driver door switch.

Now----to make this work with a remote-----some more relays are needed.

The windows in my 59 will go down with the remote or a key (won't go up).
This was wired like this for entry only----I can roll up the window whenI get in the car. (the key will actually open the door or roll the window down.

I drew this up a long time ago----kind of a pain
'Cause with the car off, I needed power to the relays but no power to the switches-----with the car on, the relays have no power.

One lead of the motor goes thru the relay directly to ground when the car is off.
The other lead gets power to and thru the relay----only when the car is off.

When the key is in "RUN or "ACCY" the relays drop out and the power and grounding goes thru the switch.
 
#4 · (Edited)
You can also do this with two of the "Bosch" cube relays. You need relays with an 87 and an 87A contacts.

Connect the wires from the actuator to pin 30 of each relay.
Connect the pin 87A terminals on both relays to ground.
Connect the pin 85 terminals on both relays to ground.
Connect the pin 87 terminals to fused power.
Applying power to pin 86 of either relay makes the actuator go one way.
Applying power to pin 86 of the other relay makes the actuator go the other way.
You can use an on-off-on single pole double throw switch to send power to either relay. You can also use a pushbutton to do the same thing. You can also use several switches, in different locations to actuate the actuator from different locations.
You can also use the same hook up with a motor for electric seats, electric windows, hydraulic lifts, or any where you need to reverse a motor by reversing the polarity on the two wires for the motor.

This is how it works:
Inside the relay, pin 30 connects to pin 87A when no power is applied to the relay coil. So both ends of the actuator, (or motor) are grounded. When you apply power to either relay coil (pin 86), that relay removes that end of the actuator (or motor) from ground, and connects it to the power at pin 87, and the actuator, (or motor) moves. Applying power to the other relay coil (pin 86) connects power to the other end of the actuator (or motor) and it goes the other way.
 
#5 ·
Here is a third option. It is similar to what DanielC said, except that it switches the ground side of the relay instead of the + side, which makes it simpler to integrate into your remote control system.

Image


I recommend measuring the amperage that the actuator draws so you can be sure the wires and the fuse or circuit breaker you use are of adequate size.

Depending on the actuator you are using, you might be well advised to use an auto-reset circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Some actuators have a built in limit switch that cuts the power when they get to the end of their stroke. But the ones that don't will draw much more amperage when they reach the end of their stroke. If this amperage spike blows the fuse, you could be stuck with the bed up and a dead system so you can't lower it. With an auto-reset circuit breaker, this problem can be avoided. Auto-makers use circuit breakers on power window and power seat circuits for the same reason.

Hope this helps... :thumbup:
 
#8 ·
:thumbup: JoeG, Daniel C, and 302 Z28 ---- from a professional businessman to you guys - THANKS!

YOU all have seriously added to my storage bank of knowledge. JoeG you have got me NAILED! A DIAGRAM? Man oh man -- You are the BOMB :~)! Seriously!

I investigate fatality accidents, involving semi trucks and trailers, so this "hobby" is my diversion from "reality" and nasty circumstances; therefore it's always exciting to find someone smarter than me, to help guide me through my electrical issues! Your quick responses really demand a hands-down, heart-felt THANK YOU! Wait til I forward your responses to my buddy! He's going to flip-out! :pimp: